decanted

Cullen Margaret River White 2007 - $20

Malcolm — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 07:56:29 +0000

Cullen is one of those wineries whose wines you can buy with unerring confidence that the product will always be, at the very least, good. Often Cullen’s wines ares very, very good. This is their cheapest white wine, a Sauv Blanc (51%)/Semillon(28%)/Chardonnay(18%)/Verdehlo (3%) blend that pleases the palate and offers something more too. I’d say for the style and the price it is very, very good.

Delicate stone fruits (Chard) dominate the nose but there are also notes of grass, nettles and capsicum, all appealing to me. Medium bodied flavours of honeysuckle, stone fruits - jeez the Chardonnay component is strong in this wine although its makes up than less than a fifth of the blend - plus grassy, herbaceous tones too. The acid is fresh but not bracing, and the wine finishes with strong, rounded flavours. A pleasure to drink.

Torbreck

Malcolm — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 07:46:29 +0000

Not everyone in the wine business would agree with me but I really admire David Powell’s attitude to pricing the Torbreck wines that he makes. He sets a price he thinks they are worth and if that means an extra $20 a bottle in a good vintage, then that is how much the wine is going to cost.

Australia needs more personalities who are willing to say “here is a premium product, pay a premium price”. That doesn’t mean taking the p*ss on price, but Australia will continue to be seen as a cheap, discounted wine market by the rest of the world, and by domestic drinkers, unless the “good” wines are recognised and priced accordingly.

Powell says he will carry the can if the wines do not sell at those prices, although, it is highly unlikely that will happen, particularly in relation to his top end reds like the Gask and the Runrig. For the premium Torbreck reds are among the most highly anticipated releases on the wine calendar and there aren’t that many bottles available. They sell out very, very quickly. I was fortunate enough to take a sneaky peak at three of the wines in the company of Powell himself, and he is generally pretty pleased with his 2006 releases, particularly the wines made from Eden Valley fruit.

The Struie Shiraz 2006 -$45

A blend of Barossa and Eden Valley fruit, lifted dark bramble fruit aromas, with a waft of chocolate, spice, and interestingly, some soked meat nuances. All seriously seductive. Juicy, spicy bramble fruits, with blueberries and chocolate, dominate the palate but there is an earthy tone to the wine that pulls the fruit back from being too overblown. The tannins are refined and there is an underlying elegance to this wine that stems from the Eden valley fruit component of the wine. Plenty of length in the finish.

The Gask 2006 - $75

Made from a single plot of Eden valley fruit, there aren’t too many bottles of this knocking around so get your hands on some pretty quick smart. Floral blood plums and dark cherries domainate the nose but with noticeable menthol (I like) and pepper too. Lush and juicy on the palate but again wih Eden valley elegance, its all bramble fruits, plums and a touch of violet characters on the palate. Long lasting flavours, silky but dry with dusty tannins on the back palate. A beauty.

The Runrig 2005 - $260

The grand daddy and the wine that gave Torbreck its international superstardom back in the day. Massive, massive nose, yet complex and sexy, a full range of black fruits, dark chocolate and just a hint of something slightly more savoury. Mouthfilling and velvety, the fruits are jam packed with flavour with jammy, sweet plums and black berries, chocolate, and spicy, smoky tones that add to quite a hedonistic experience. The flavour blows you away, perhaps a bit too much to be a regular tipple for my liking but I wouldn’t say no to a glass once a week. This will more than please 98% of people who drink red wine.

Centennial Vineyards

Malcolm — Thu, 20 Mar 2008 09:06:46 +0000

Its is apt that I am posting reviews of some of the wines of Centennial Vineyards, probably the Southern Highlands region’s leading wine producer, at Easter. For it was two years ago that I spent Easter in Bowral, with a very boozy lunch and afternoon at the Centennial winery the focal point. It was one of those afternoons, in the crisp Autumn sunshine, eating delicious, hearty fare and drinking good wine, that you just don’t want to end. But it did, and it was a bit messy.

The Southern Highlands wine-making history dates back to around the 1870s, but after ceasing in the 1950s, it wasn’t until the early 1980s that commercial grape-growing recommenced. It might surprise you, for it certainly surprised me, to hear that there are now 13 wineries operating in what is a fairly small area. With wineries only and hour and a bit out of Sydney, it is a wine region closer to the Big Smoke than the Hunter (at least if you live on the good side of the bridge), and if the Centennial wines I tasted below are anything to go by, well worth a visit.

Centennial Vineyards Woodside Pinot Noir 2005 -$20

I’ve been drinking heaps of quality Pinot Noir recently (lucky me) and this does not show up too badly at all for a $20 wine. Bright, garnet red colour with stewed dark cherry and blood plum aromas, a hint of gun smoke and lovely clove characters too. Much the same on a light to medium bodied palate, not complex but plenty flavour and certainly enough length at this price.

Centennial Vineyards Reserve Pinot Noir 2005 -$27

This has that extra something, that dash of added interest that is lacking in the Woodside. The red cherry fruit aromas are complimented by pleasant earthy characters, with spicy oak sitting in the background. Medium bodied, with a classic mix of crunchy, red berry flavours, a touch of the forest floor, dusty tannins and a soft yet satisfying finish. I like.

Centennial Vineyards Woodside Tempranillo 2006 - $20

I drank at least a bottle of a Centennial Tempranillo on my visit to the winery two years ago, and from what I remember it was delicious stuff. This did not disappoint either, and is an impressive attempt at a variety that Australian producers haven’t generally done too well with. Driven by primary fruit aromas, with plums and dark cherries to the fore, on the palate the red berry fruits are juicy and satisfying, and there is enough weight to carry the flavour through the palate. Simple but delicious.

Centennial Vineyards Reserve Shiraz Viognier -$28

As with the Tempranillo, the fruit is Hilltops, but I’m not so taken with this, although plenty of people will like the style. The nose is heady, lots going on with lifted aromas of blood plums, liqourice, cloves, and a touch of apricot from the Viognier. On the palate it just too lush and ripe for me, which as I said will please plenty but I prefer my Shiraz Viognier to be a touch more savoury. I get too much of a confected character, and the fruit is not quite subtle enough for my liking. I also think the alcohol at 14.8% stands out too much. Just not my cup of tea.

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Coriole Redstone Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 -$17

Malcolm — Mon, 10 Mar 2008 06:07:35 +0000

The insider’s tip is that 2006 was a cracker year for McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon, and going by this relative cheapie from Coriole, the insider could be right.

A bright purple colour, this is has a really attractive nose of cassis, chocolate, cigar box and spice. Its not overdone and its not jammy. Medium to full bodied, with ripe blackberries, plums, a lick of chocolate but also a savoury, gravelly edge that frames the fruit. The tannins are ripe and the finish is dry and not without length. Its fresher and far more interesting than I expected it to be and was still holding up the next day, but not necessarily drinking any better. A yummy wine at a great price.

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Logan Weemala Merlot 2006 - $15

Malcolm — Mon, 10 Mar 2008 06:06:59 +0000

Logan’s Weemala range of wines get their fair share of shelf space in Sydney’s smaller bottle shops, a testament to Peter and Hannah Logan’s efforts to market the wines as flavoursome, food-friendly wines at a fair price point. And I really, really like the Merlot. But then, I’m really, really liking Merlot from Orange and the Central Ranges. It is where it is at.

Purple colour, with plums and mulberry on the nose, along with a green tinge that might put some off but I like it. A sweet core of medium bodied dark cherries and blood plums are balanced by an earthy, sappy streak and raspy, drying tannins. A good example of a cheap, cool-climate Merlot.

Castagna Un Segreto 2005 - $90

Malcolm — Tue, 26 Feb 2008 07:59:40 +0000

With all the tales of doom and woe about the challenges facing Australian wine producers, from drought to the ever rising value of the Australian dollar, its good to know that some producers are continuing to push the boundaries in the name of innovation, excellence, and just being that little bit different. And to hell with the consequences. Its those producers who make me buzz and fizz with excitement about what the future can hold in store for Australia and the country’s wines, and its those producers who make me feel proud to be a part of the wine “industry”.

I’ve been thinking about this all day having tasted the first release of a “Super Beechworth” wine from Julian Castagna. Its a Sangiovese (60%)/Shiraz (40%) blend and it is one of the best young wines I’ve had. Its the kinda wine i don’t think I’d ever tire of drinking, and if I had the funds, I’d be drinking a bottle or two every week. Its a wine that expresses the possibilities of Australia’s up and coming wine regions, whilst demonstrating the beauty of medium-bodied, food-friendly reds that still speak of Australian vibrancy, freshness and fruit flavour. Its a wine of character and complexity that should inspire, and create debate in equal measure.

This was tasted for the first time at 8pm, having been opened, double decanted, and then left in a decanter for about 2 hours. It was still opening up in the glass at 10pm. Dark, ruby red, the wine’s vitality shone from the glass. The aromas darted around between kirsch cherries, cinnamon, cloves, cedar, salami, earth, gun smoke. Complex and beguiling. Medium bodied and velvet smooth flavours of juicy, sweet red cherries and raspberries on the front palate gave way to liquorice, red bramble fruit, dried herbs, cedar. Wow. Not one of those out-weighed another. The juicy fruit flavours are so well balanced by the savoury, mineral tones that run through the wine. The raspy Sangiovese tannins kicked in towards the finish which is dry, and long. Wow.

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Jean-Marc Brocard Domaine St Claire Chablis 2006 - $35

Malcolm — Tue, 26 Feb 2008 07:24:19 +0000

I don’t get the chance to look at much Chablis so it was nice to have a peek at this on a Manic Monday. Or Tuesday. Or whatever day this is.

The nose is closed, with hints of flint, citrus and not much else really. Deliciously dry and lean on the palate, with light to medium bodied rock melon and grapefruit flavours. Has that classic Chablis minerality running through it, and although it is a linear wine, there is texture and a hint of broader flavours on the back palate. Finishes with reasonable length. Interesting, and a very refreshing change from most Australian Chardonnay.

Philip Shaw

Malcolm — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 10:38:22 +0000

I’m an Orange man, I am. And no, dear Scottish readers (Hi Mum), I don’t mean I’ve taken up the sash, the flute and sworn allegiance to King Billy. I’m referring to my growing admiration for the premium wines being produced from the Orange region of New South Wales, about 300kms west of Sydney.

Dominated by the presence of the extinct volcano Mount Canoblas, Orange is the highest altitude wine growing region in Australia, with vines situated between 600m and 1100m above sea level. That altitude, combined with the rich, basalt volcanic soils of the area, and favourable weather conditions during the growing season have blessed Orange with superb conditions for producing intense yet elegant wines from a number of grape varieties.

Philip Shaw, one-time chief wine-maker at Southcorp (Penfolds, Rosemount et al) has been highly influential in the region’s development, planting vineyards back in 1989. Here are some of the wines from his portfolio that caught my fancy at a recent tasting.

Philip Shaw No. 19 Sauvignon Blanc 2007 - $23

Fragrant white flowers and gooseberries on the nose but not too pungent. Fruit and acidity are balanced, this is well-textured with gooseberries, herbs, restrained tropical fruits. Linear and fresh, a Sauvignon Blanc I can enjoy.

Philip Shaw No.11 Chardonnay 2006 - $30

This has the stamp of cool-climate class written all over it. Grapefruit and peach aromatics mingle with oatmeal, blossom and cashew, with not one of those forcing its way to the forefront. Its got mouth feel, lovely fruit weight with delicate and subtle stone fruit flavours, with nuances of the French oak maturation. A vibrant backbone of acidity, perfectly in balance with the fruit weight, adds to the length. Elegance to the end.

Philip Shaw No. 89 Shiraz Viognier 2005 - $44

I liked this while my tasting companion did not. To me its got Cote Rotie character running through its veins. Fragrant red berry fruits on the nose, with a definite savoury edge, and just enough white pepper and spice characters. On the palate its got everything I love about Orange Shiraz. Spotless plum and sour cherry fruit flavours, a touch of liquorice and aniseed, the acidity is refreshing but balanced, and there is just that hint of white pepper and spice that makes for something interesting. Oak is barely noticeable, its really all about the primary flavours. There is grip towards the finish which is sound if not particularly long. Very tasty.

Philip Shaw No. 17 Merlot Cabernet 2006 - $25

This was the show-stopper, a wine that has more than a passing resemblance to a Cru Classe St Emilion. 43% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc, and 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, its got perfumed cassis and plums, with the 100% new French Oak singing in all its cedar cloaked glory. Yum. Medium-bodied, this is class and balance, power and finesse. Flavours are dark cherries, blackcurrants, mulberry, and tobacco wrapped in firm yet supple tannins and a cleansing minerality that makes one want to finish the bottle in a flash. A sound, persistent finish. Well done Mr Shaw.

Philip Shaw Pink Billy Rose 2006 - $23

Predominantly Merlot with some Shiraz in the mix (the split is 85/15), this is a full-bodied style, dry, with fresh strawberry flavours. Packs a punch but finessed at the same time.

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SixFootSix

Malcolm — Tue, 19 Feb 2008 07:40:04 +0000

You might not know the name Austin Wines, from Geelong in Victoria, but if you have been to any self-respecting bottle shop in Sydney and browsed the Pinot Noir section, you will have noticed, and possibly even bought, a bottle of SixFootSix. I only found out last year, from owner Pam Austin herself, that Austin Wines are responsible for this hugely successful brand.

SixFootSix led the charge of the “good-value and drinkable” Pinot Noir brigade, at a time when finding decent Pinot for under $30, never mind $20, was a tricky task. As you’ll see from my tasting note, Pam and her husband, Richard’s, Pinot is still up there with the best in the sub $20 bracket, even though the competition from the likes of De Bortoli Gulf Station, and Hoddles Creek, has made things interesting.

Six Foot Six Pinot Noir 2006 -$18

Lifted fruit aromas showing red cherries, plums, violets, and all the other little aromatic nuances that scream PINOT NOIR! Mouth-filling and generous but not flabby or dull in any way. The plums and red cherries have a savoury edge that makes this more than your average budget Pinot Noir and, as with the Chardonnay (see below), it has a freshness that gives it drinkability in spades.

Six Foot Six Chardonnay 2006 -$18

A favourably fresh Chardonnay, gold and bright in colour. Harmonious aromas of peach, green apple and creamy oak, quite subtle but offering enough. A clean, fruit driven palate of pineapple and stone-fruits, with only the merest hint of oak, it is very moreish and a superb price. Cool-climate Chardonnay for those on a budget.

Six Foot Six Shiraz Viognier 2004 -$18

Interesting to note that this is 4 years old already. The Viognier (3%) gives the nose that extra bit of lift and power, with dark cherries, stewed plums, and peppery notes in the mix as well. Sweet and lush dark cherries on the front palate gives way to a savoury, peppery streak that I always find happy-making when it comes to Shiraz Viognier. Avoids the cloying confectionary characters of many a “cheap” Shiraz Viognier, and although its not complex, its well-balanced with a persistent finish.

Petagna Wines “Diavolo” Shiraz Cabernet 2005 - $60 (posted by Nick)

Malcolm — Wed, 13 Feb 2008 10:39:35 +0000

I feel like I’ve stumbled across something special here…
Paul Petagna is a young McLaren Vale wine maker better known in the US than he is on home turf. Yes, Parker ratings have helped his cause, BUT, this is not a “Parker Wine”.

His straight Shiraz from the Vale is under the Piombo brand name and is a wine that attracts US$80 in certain circles. Check out the Piombo website and you’ll see that some heavy-hitters wax lyrical.

The wine before me tonight, his “Diavolo” (trans. Devil. Ita) is a blend of Shiraz and Cabernet. It is Paul’s own project and the first of 3 wines to be released under the striking label.

Deep purple with red edges, this is not pure ink. Blueberry pie on the nose; the cassis of the Cabernet subduing the brooding blackberry of Shiraz. I like.

I’ve given this wine some air and it’s thanked me for it. The wine is very balanced. I must declare my hand as a fan of the these varieties together.

Transition from front to back palate is all too easy. Cabernet sandwiching Shiraz in the middle. This will age well and is a wine to watch as it finds some friends in Oz.